Ascots

In the UK, cravat is the umbrella word for neckwear tied at the throat rather than knotted like a tie, and the informal version tucked into an open collar is a day cravat. In the US, ascot usually means that same day cravat. Confusingly, a formal ascot is a different, wider piece worn over the shirt with morning dress and secured with a pin. So ascot and cravat are often the same thing; only the formal ascot is distinct.

For almost every occasion, the day cravat. It is a soft length of silk worn loosely knotted inside an open-collar shirt, under a blazer, suit or knitwear, and it suits weddings, race days, garden parties and relaxed smart wear. The formal ascot is worn only with morning dress (tailcoat and striped trousers) at very traditional weddings or Royal Ascot; it goes over the shirt, is tied in a wider knot and pinned. If you are not wearing a morning coat, buy a day cravat.

1) Drape the cravat around your neck under the collar, one end about 5 cm longer than the other.
2) Cross the long end over the short end, then bring it up through the loop at your throat.
3) Pull it down and over the front so it hangs flat, covering the short end.
4) Adjust so the knot sits just below the throat and the front is puffed but smooth.
5) Tuck both ends into the open shirt collar, with the shirt buttoned to the second or third button, and settle the folds. Loosen slightly for a natural look.

A shirt with a soft or medium spread collar, worn open at the top one or two buttons. Button-down collars fight with a cravat, and stiff, tall collars look severe. Plain white, pale blue or a fine stripe are the easiest shirts, because they let the silk pattern lead. Avoid loud shirt patterns. The shirt needs enough room at the neck for the cravat to sit inside it without bunching.

The day cravat is tucked into the shirt, with the collar open and the silk showing in the V. The formal ascot is worn over the shirt front, tied in a wide knot and secured with a pin, and only with morning dress. If someone asks whether to wear a cravat over the shirt for a wedding, the answer is no unless the dress code specifies morning suits; tucked in is the version almost everyone means.

Yes, an ascot or day cravat works with a suit as a tie alternative, especially with softer fabrics like tweed, linen or a lighter-coloured summer suit. It reads as relaxed and traditional rather than corporate, so it suits weddings, race days and social events better than the office. Keep the suit plain, the shirt simple and the cravat the single point of pattern in the outfit.

Either is correct, and the choice usually follows the suit. With a morning suit, the traditional pairing is a cravat, either a formal ascot pinned over the shirt or, more commonly now, a day cravat. With a lounge suit or three-piece, a tie is the safer default, but a cravat works if the wedding is relaxed or in the countryside. Whatever the groom wears, give the groomsmen something slightly different so he stands out.

They can be, but only if worn as a costume. An ascot looks natural when the rest of the outfit is relaxed: an open collar, a blazer or knitwear, muted colours and the cravat loosely tucked rather than puffed up to the chin. It looks pretentious when it is paired with a stiff suit, a fussy pattern and a formal knot. Wear it like a scarf you happen to have on, not like a statement.

Ascots and cravats are almost always one size, because they are tied loosely and the length gives plenty of adjustment. Monzoro's are approximately 8.5 x 56 inches (22 x 142 cm), which fits virtually all neck sizes when loosely knotted. The width matters more than the length: a narrower blade sits tidier inside a shirt collar, while the wide formal ascot is for morning dress only.

With knitwear, yes: a day cravat under a V-neck jumper, cardigan or shawl-collar knit, worn over an open-collar shirt, is one of the classic ways to wear it. With a polo shirt, it rarely works because the polo collar is small and soft and the cravat has nowhere to sit. If you want the look without a shirt, a small silk neckerchief knotted at the side is the better choice.

Tie it a little tighter than feels natural, then tuck both ends firmly into a shirt buttoned to the second or third button; the shirt holds it in place. A small safety pin or a cravat pin through the lower folds and the shirt placket, hidden from view, keeps it steady for a long day. Avoid slippery collarless shirts, and check it in a mirror after taking your jacket on or off.

Dry cleaning is the safest choice for a silk cravat, especially printed or coloured ones. If you hand wash, use cool water and mild detergent, no soaking or wringing, and dry flat away from sun. Iron on the low silk setting, on the reverse, through a cloth. Store it loosely rolled or flat rather than tightly folded, and keep it away from aftershave and perfume, which can mark silk permanently.